Friday, March 6, 2009

Jewellery

This week we are going to take a look at jewelry trends in different cultures and countries. We will of course look back at history to see how it helped mold the jewelry fashion industry into what it is today. We will focus on specific countries throughout this week and then showcase of few of Gilbert and Frech’s uniquely original designs and see how the influence of style and culture helped to create them.
Some of the earliest pieces of jewelry that were created out of precious metals and gemstones were found in the country of Egypt. Egyptians mainly used gold and fashioned many items out of this very malleable metal such as armlets, bracelets, head adornments, rings, earrings and even collars. Greece also was making their own fashion trends during the BC era and the trend at that time was using beads and designing them into shapes that represented nature such as flowers, shells or beetles. Greece was wealthy with raw materials and started adorning their jewelry with precious gemstones such as rubies, emeralds and pearls. Pearls became the most prized and precious gemstone in jewelry. The most rare and beautiful were found in South India and the Persian Gulf. During the 17th century is when jewelry became an adornment that was acceptable in everyday use. France was a great influence on the jewelry industry during the early 1800’s. Victorian jewelry became popular as Queen Victoria reigned and it began to be massed produced and sold all over the world. During the 1950’s America made its mark with what people would refer to as the Hollywood influence.
Over the years many countries had their influence over the style and trends of jewelry. As it was created and shipped to different parts of the world, other cultures added their own unique flare. It will be fun to take a look this week at specific countries and see what the popular jewelry trend is in their culture today! Will it be similar to what is popular here in America or will it be completely unique and different? The world has become smaller with the birth of the internet. Every kind of information is available to us know with just the tapping of our fingertips. Just like that, we can type in and order whatever kind of jewelry we like from whatever country or culture we want. It is truly an amazing thing.

Jewellery

I have been collecting Antique and Vintage Costume and Fine Jewelry for over three decades. Most of what I bought was from the Saturday and Sunday flea markets at the local drive-in theater and at a once a month massive open air antique market held in the mountains near where I grew up. I never paid much, a quarter here, a dime there and sometimes a few dollars however over the years until I really became a serious collector, I probably had no more than $500.00 in an amazing collection of over 2,500-3,000 pieces.
Over the years I have collected many types of jewelry. At first it was bracelets, then rings and when I got out of college and pursued my career as an interior designer, I found pins and earrings to be practical and suitable. In the mid-60’s to early 70’s I bought a lot of colorful and heavy “plastic” pieces and most were bracelets. I just loved the dull clunk they made when they hit against my desk… well I am sure you know where this is going… you’re right most were Bakelite. One in particular is a wonderful art deco black, red, orange, yellow and green fins clamper bracelet and it is like having a carnival on your arm. It fits great and feels sturdy andit brings me joy. It wasn’t until I received Harrice Simons-Miller 2002 third edition Official Price Guide to Costume Jewelry, that I realized the bracelet is called “Philadelphia” and has a market value of up to $5,000 making it the Holy Grail of Bakelite jewelry.
I also became quite passionate for the charm bracelets made in the 1960’s by Napier. At one point I had over 30 of them and I rarely wore them I just loved holding them. I had the colored fruit, the Asian theme, and my favorites was the marine theme with seashells and seahorses. Over the years I paid between $1.00 - $5.00 each for them and in early 2000, I sold them individually on eBay for $125.00 and up to 245.00 each. What a great return, right. Well yes but a day does not go by that I regret selling them. They gave me more happiness than the monies they brought.
As I became more sophisticated in my jewelry search I began to love all things Miriam Haskell, Eisenberg, Pennino and Boucher. All of these names seemed to come with a higher price but still affordable and all quite luxurious. Then there came Staret, McClelland-Barclay, Schreiner, Dujay, DeMario, Reja, Deja and Alfred Philippe and Alfred Spaney’s extra special pieces made for Crown Trifari. Needless to say I was smitten and would never turn back. After a while and as I was getting older, I started to understand the beauty of 19C Victorian and Art Nouveau and in particular the mourning pieces made during and after the Civil War. The Art Deco period pieces also caught my attention because of their architectural angled designs. Well enough about me…
Throughout the years it was truly guesswork as to what I should pay for a piece and then the harder part came when trying to find out how much a piece was worth. As a result I found that the public library had many jewelry price guides and I poured through them all for days on end and would pick out my next piece I was obsessing for. Through this research, I found three authors who stood out as being the best at giving the right information for just about anything you might need to know as an antique and vintage costume and fine jewelry collector or dealer.
The first is Jeanenne Bell. Jeanenne Bell has been on Antiques Roadshow as a jewelry appraiser and is one of America’s leading authorities on antique jewelry. She has written many books and the first book I bought of hers was “How to be a Jewelry Detective”. This book is filled to the brim with priceless information about the clues to solving jewelry mysteries. She gives easy to understand tips for testing materials, gem cuts, hardware and findings throughout the ages, marks and a whole lot more. I have recommended this book to literally 100’s of my buyers on eBay who may not be sure what gutta percha is, or is it ivory or bone and what is a briolette cut stone. She answers them all and she even has a small pocket size field guide to take along to the shops and flea markets.
My favorite book of hers is Collecting Victorian Jewelry which is a real treat for the eyes and is beautiful enough to be left out for others to peruse. In this book she shows an amazing range of incredible museum quality pieces of Costume and Fine jewelry. Each piece is a work of art and each has an easy to understand description and value assigned. She imparts the history associated with the Victorian era and who all of the main characters were. She enlightens the reader about this period in time that was all about romance, passion and heartache. Very good read and a very good aid to the serious period piece collector.
My next favorite author is Harrice Simons-Miller. I have two of her price guides, Costume Jewelry 2nd edition and Official Price Guide to Costume Jewelry 3rd edition. What I love about her books is that she knows her stuff as it relates to costume jewelry dating from early Art Deco up to the present. Her books are very good for identifying the major players in the costume and fashion design industries. She really clarifies what each jewelry designer’s signature look is and her photographs and descriptions will give you an edge when you are out in the field. Her values are truly representative of retail in fine antique or jewelry boutiques and give the reader the parameters as to what to spend to get your jewelry collection “fix”. She has bought from me on eBay on a couple of occasions and each piece she purchased was always a little odd and unexpected, making me think she knew of or was creating a trend which others were yet aware.
My third favorite author is Roseann Ettinger. She has a series of price guides that are not only about jewelry but other vintage collectibles with a lot of concentration on fashion and the fifties. Her jewelry price guides include her “popular” series and include “Forties and Fifties Popular Jewelry”, “Popular Jewelry of the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s” and my all time favorite of hers “1840-1940 Popular Jewelry” the revised 3rd edition. Her price guide covers jewelry pieces that you actually might come across and be able to own for not a lot of money. Unlike Bell and Simons-Miller who are showing museum quality and hard to find pieces, the pieces shown in Ettingers are really quite attainable and I have actually had many of her pieces that she has described. Her photographs are quite large making it easy to see the details of the pieces and she doesn’t dwell on the glitzier side of jewelry but the real down to earth stuff that most of our mothers and grandmothers would have worn.
There are many great costume jewelry price guides out there from Nancy Schiffer, Lillian Baker, Christie Romero for Warman’s, Cheri Simonds, Ronna Lee Atkins and more, but my first three will give the beginner or even well seasoned antique and vintage costume or fine jewelry collector or dealer a well rounded wealth of knowledge and pricing guidelines.

Jewellery

Although many brands claim to have been "the jeweler's jeweler," Hatot truly was. Born in 1883 in Burgundy, Hatot went to Paris at 22 to hone his watchmaking craft and, soon, he opened his own jewelry, watch, and accessories atelier. Much of his work was commissioned by Place Vendome and Rue de la Paix jewelers, who sought out his expertise. "We acquired some of his archives, which includes more than 5,000 drawings and sketches as well as manufacturing records of pieces created for Cartier, Boucheron, Tiffany, and Van Cleef & Arpels," Emch adds.
Hatot often is associated with Art Deco, which he helped pioneer in his designs. He even received the French Legion of Honor at the Art Deco Exposinon of 1925 in Paris. Hatot, if anything, was a modernist. He evolved from the old school constructions to explore new concepts in design such as Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and Orientalism.
If there's one thing that permeated his designs, it was a sense of freedom and femininity, says Emch. "This, the era of Isadora Duncan, Amy Johnson and Louise Brooks--and, perhaps most famously, Josephine Baker, the cabaret singer who was the toast of Paris and one of Hatot's favorite clients. His contemporaries were Van Gogh, Picasso, Matisse, and Cezanne. You can see the freedom of form and the freedom women had in his designs."
Besides jewelry, Hatot also pioneered electric clocks under the ATO brand and, in the 1930s, his "Rolls" watch, with his own self-winding movements, was coveted by wealthy women. Joan Crawford calls her Roils watch "an eternity in a box."
The latest line reflects much of this heritage. Watches are feminine and hidden beneath bucklelike cases that easily pop open to reveal the time. Jewelry collections are limited, due to the intricacies of design, cost, and the fact that customers want a special look. "If a woman is spending $200,000 on a piece, she doesn't want to see it on anyone rise," Emch says. Jewelry watches in steel may start under $10,000, but prices increase to $50,000, and some jewelry may even be up to more than $1 million.
One spectacular piece exhibited in Basel, the "Nange," featured 3,000 full-cut brilliants, 35 baguettes, and 20 marquise stones. It sold within two days. "It's not something you are likely to see again, although we do have a smaller version that's appropriate for day wear," Emch says. "It took 300 hours of development and 150 hours of production. But, for this customer, she is looking for a standout piece that is creative and individual."
Many of the pieces feature the brand's proprietary ideal cut, known as the Coup de Foudre (thunderbolt), whose 57 facets have eight arrows or eight hearts, according to the light and point of view.
Emch says the rollout to the United States is slow and deliberate. "In the U.S. market, there is no making mistakes. You do it right, or you won't make it."

Jewellery

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FOR SOME, IT MAY BE HARD TO IMAGINE: The company that made plastic watches a household name is now rolling out a high-end luxury watch and jewelry collection that bears the name of one of the 20th century's most respected watch and jewelry makers. But that's precisely what Swatch Group is doing

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with Leon Hatot. which the conglomerate bought in 1999.
Hatot, though, is a haute brand for Swatch, along with Breguet, Blancpain, and Jaquet Droz. According to Madame Arlette Emch, president of Leon Hatot and an officer on Swatch Group's management board, Hatot can be considered a natural fit. "After all, what were Cartier and Bulgari before they became watchmakers? It's a natural symbiosis between fine watches and jewelry."
Emch, who has spearheaded Swatch Group's jewelry business from the Swatch brand and Calvin Klein to Omega and Breguet, has positioned Leon Hatot, however, as the uppermost jewelry in the crown, the only one particularly for women. Although the brand has its own stores on the Rue de la Paix in Paris, and in Cannes, Seoul, Geneva, and soon Tokyo, it also wholesales in the Middle East, Asia, and Russia. "Switzerland, France, and Russia have been our best markets so far," says Emch. "Now we are preparing to launch in the United States, by opening Leon Hatot stores and other points-of-sale with top jewelers."
Like Richemont, Gucci Group, and LVMH, Swatch Group believes the market for branded jewelry and watches presents great opportunity. "Less than 10 percent of what is sold is branded," Emch says. "There's a definite opening for international brands."
Although watches are, indeed, an important part, so is the jewelry, which also is made in Switzerland. Emch researched the background on Hatot and reminds that many of the French jewelry makers were exiled from France during the reign of Louis XIV because they were Protestants. Some found refuge in Switzerland, where Calvinism thrived. "Ostentation was discouraged, so the jewelers became watchmakers."

Jewellery

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Fine Jewellery

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